Do you remember your first ride? Oh you should damn you; it should be so engrained into your mind’s eye that it will never need any form of corrective vision to see it again and again, even when your eighty-eight!
The smell of the sea and it’s taste on your lips, as you bob up and down with each passing wave. A little bit of anxiety. The trials and tribulations of getting your ass kicked by so many pounding waves you can still feel salt water being shoved up your nose as you face plant again and again, trying to get that first true ride. Exhaustion, humiliation, the sun on your back. One more try! The next set on the horizon. The rhythm of your arms paddling to catch the approaching wave, the swell of the break, the lift of the board, your feet touching the surface of the sex wax as you push up, the rush of the wind on your face, the view standing on top,…,I’m a “sweep stakes winner”, always!